Sunday, December 13, 1998 – Underway to Puerto Angel
G’day to you all
As you may have noticed, yesterday was a journal-less day. Michael and I have been considering for some time now whether we should integrate a day off for journal writing. So yesterday we made the executive decision to make Saturdays the journal free day. I would be lying if there were no motive behind choosing yesterday. It turns out the 12th of December is Virgin of Guadalupe day and a very important one for Mexican Catholics. Rumor had it that there would be processions and much action in town (Acapulco).
So in the spirit and as tradition has it, the STARSHIP crew donned all the white clothing items we had and ventured into town looking most virginate. Sadly, we missed the processions, but did see many intricate religious stalls that surrounded the main square. Although Acapulco has been plagued by the tourist trap (accounts for 60% of Mexican tourism), I must say that the natural harbor is very beautiful. From the middle of the 16th century to early 19th century the harbor served as a trading port. Galleons loaded Mexican silver bound for the Philippines where it was traded for porcelain, silk and gold. Back in Acapulco, the goods would then be shipped on to Peru and Spain.
DJ returning from a small reprovisioning stop at WalMarts in Acapulco
Instead of silver, STARSHIP loaded another 8000 liter (2100 US Gallons) of diesel fuel from the Club de Yates fuel dock. The harbormaster was good enough to give us a slip for the night, which are like gold dust. Unlike all other slips we have used to date, this one required us to utilize what is called a Mediterranean mooring. The idea was to put the anchor down and slowly back up to the non-floating pier. From our stern we were to run and make fast two lines to the cleats on the pier. As luck would have it, our anchor snagged some rogue chain on the muddy bottom and hence we were going nowhere. We tried hard to get the chain off, but to no avail. So yours truly had to jump into the murky port water with scuba gear and unhitch our anchor. Having done this successfully and after much deliberation we ended up forgoing our spot and headed into the centre of the harbor to safely put our pick in. This resulted in having to use the tender to get us into town, but also meant that we had no worries about STARSHIP coming loose on the med. mooring while we were having a phat time in town.
Dolphins following the STARSHIP enroute to Puerto Angel
We left Acapulco this afternoon and expect to arrive in Puerto Angel about noon tomorrow. From there we will gather information as to the best time to cross the windy Golf of Tehuantepec. Under particular weather conditions, two mountain ranges in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec direct strong gales through a valley. In the boating world, these winds are known as the Tehuantepec-er and can reach 35-40 knots (force 8) and last hours to days. They are also very difficult to predict, but with knowledge of pressure systems in the Gulf of Mexico, it is possible to determine when it may be safe to pass. Once the Gulf is crossed, we head for the Mexican/Guatemalan border. From there STARSHIP will make a beeline for Costa Rica and expects to be moored up in Punta Arenas by the 19th or 20th (hopefully).
So there you go! An exciting few days behind and ahead of us, though maybe not quite a teeth clincher. Puerto Angel is apparently quite relaxed and small, which sounds just like my type of place. For today then I shall sign off and wish you all well.
Rich