Tuesday, December 21, 1999- Picton Harbor, Marlborough Sound, NZ

Dear STARSHIP Cyber Crew,

We have arrived safely at Picton Harbor in South Island. This morning’s passage through the Cook Strait was smooth sailing. Turns out we chose a perfect window for the crossing. In the strait if the wind shifts to the North the swell can increase to a height of 8 meters with breaking crests. Taking into account the tide, conditions can be quite dangerous for a cruising vessel. Even Captain Cook was unable to pass through on his voyage around the North Island. In order to continue his trip of the North Island coast he had to circle the entire South Island to get around.

Late last night the wind dropped to 1-5 knots and the seas were glassy calm. The moon was just days away from full and reflected all over the smooth water. December 22 is the winter solstice, or the longest day of the year for those of us in the Southern Hemisphere. For those of you on the North of the equator it will be the winter solstice, or the shortest day of the year. The solstice happens twice a year and is the point at which the Sun is farthest from earth’s celestial equator. This year’s solstice is unique in that it is also the full moon. This only happens every 28 years. It will be an extra bright full moon since the moon is at the closest point in its orbit to the earth. The moon hasn’t been this bright since 1866. (Special thanks to Lizz Schoening for writing in last week and with interest on this event.) With all that in mind I hope we have a clear night in order appreciate it with a moonlit walk.

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STARSHIP after entering Tory Channel, Marlborough Sounds
Ulrike enjoys the beautiful vistas

Ulli, Caroline, Enrico, Michael, Tom and I gathered in the wheelhouse as we crossed the strait. South Island looked like a solid line of green mountains not appearing to offer any shelter. It didn’t seem possible that the coast was riddled with fjords, but then we spotted a fast catamaran ferry shooting out of the Tory Channel. Possible to go as fast as 50 knots, they have a typical cruising speed of 40 knots, while STARSHIP cruises at 10 knots. Once in the channel we had to push against a 6-knot current.  Michael pushed the throttle down and we went at full speed ahead. Engine revving up to 1750 RPM, STARSHIP sliced through the current and Tom stood smiling on the fly bridge. Because the mouth of Tory Channel can be so tricky every vessel must announce her entrance or departure on the VHF radio. Traffic was a bit heavy with the ferries as we made our way up the Tory Channel to the Queen Charlotte Sound.

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STARSHIP docked in Picton Harbor

We also have DJ back on board and her delightful father Albrecht Rehren or “Papa DJ.” While they were climbing aboard Papa DJ lost his clip-on sunglasses overboard, I put on the scuba gear and dove in to look for it but the visibility at the bottom of the harbor was about a foot and, after I kicked up all the sediment, I wasn’t even able to tell if my flashlight was on or off. So I came up empty handed but Papa DJ seemed to appreciate the gesture.

Michael invited over Mike Aviss, from the Department of Conservation and Jeannine Paul, Manager of Port Marlborough. For the next three days we will be observing some wildlife around the Marlborough Sound.

Over and Out,


Anne-Lise