January 11, 2000- Doubtful Sound, NZ

Hello STARSHIP followers,

Last night at 10 pm we met with Phillip Smith from Bravo Adventure Cruises and he led us out to see the kiwis that feed on Ocean Beach. Stewart Island has a population of 20, 000 brown kiwis, one of the highest concentrations in the world. No one is exactly sure why Ocean Beach is one of the best places to see this nocturnal flightless bird. Phillip could only explain that they come to this beach to feed on the sand-hoppers and grubs, which live in the rotting seaweed. He doesn’t guarantee a sighting, but he takes every precaution to make sure the birds do not abandon this feeding and nesting area. Working with the Department of Conservation (DOC), Phillip follows certain concessions with his tours; he only visits the site every other night, with no more than 15 people at a time. He also tends to traps, set to catch non-native hunters of the kiwi.

Phillip led us quietly down the beach. We did not use any source of light other than his flashlight, which the birds are accustomed to. The wind was blowing. We all zipped our jackets up around our faces as we waited for this unusual bird to wander onto the beach. One hour, two hours, up and down the beach, we were unable find the kiwis that had left the tracks on the beach. Careful not to step on the kiwi feeding area, we moved to another beach on the leeward side. At the new location we spotted a young kiwi picking through the driftwood and seaweed. It was around three months old, brown and fuzzy. I could just make out its long beak and powerful legs before Phillip turned off his torch. Soon after we left the birds to look for food in peace.

On passage today we rounded the southwest corner of New Zealand, which is riddled with fiords. Watching the landscape roll by, the coast would open up momentarily to reveal a misty view down a fiord. During the ice age, 2.4 million years ago, glaciers and sheets of ice forged out these enormous valleys. In some places great lakes were carved out and in others the ice pushed right out to the ocean. The glaciers melted near the end of the ice age, letting the ocean rush in, flooding the valleys. This geological phenomenon has created one of the most beautiful places in the world. (Also one of the wettest.) The Fiordlands has been internationally recognized as a World Heritage Park. This evening we will be anchored in Doubtful Sound (pictured [photo Anne-Lise Breuning]) getting to know the local population of sand flies.

Monika and Caroline are in their foul weather gear washing the salt off the boat, taking breaks to watch the bottlenose dolphins swim at the bow. Enrico looked up from making pizza to point out a waterfall off to our starboard side. James was updating the website and is now on watch with Trevor trying to pick which beautiful corner of the fiord will be the best anchorage for the night.

STARSHIP signing off,

Anne-Lise

Quote of the Day : We had the honor of meeting Murray Ingle last night, who is a forestry consultant encouraged by the regeneration of native trees on Stewart Island. He said; “It hasn’t rained in 10 days here in Stewart Island, we must be having a drought.” [photo James Frankham]