Thursday January 6, 2000-passage to Stewart Island, NZ

Hello folks,

Long, long ago there lived a god named Maui who went out fishing with his brothers. They sailed far out beyond the sight of land in their beautiful canoe. After dropping the anchor, Maui took out his magic fishhook, which was a piece of the jaw of his sorcerer grandmother, and tossed it down into the depths of the sea. A massive fish took hold and after a great struggle Maui pulled it in. The immense flat fish became the North Island of New Zealand. His canoe became the South Island and his anchor the small island of Rakiura. Moa hunters settled Rakiura as early as the 13 century. (Moa hunters or Maoriori lived in New Zealand before the Maoris arrived.) Much later the first Pakeha (Europeans) came to the island and renamed it Stewart Island. In 1864, Stewart Island was bought from the Maoris and timber mills, ship building yards and fish curing stations were set-up. There was a small gold rush but after that simmered down, Stewart Island became the quiet, unhassled place it is today.

Presently Stewart Island is know as an ornithologist‘s delight and unspoiled get away destination. The island is 64 km long and 40 km wide and less than 20 km of roads. The highest point on the island is Mt Anglem at 980 meters. The hearty and independent local population of around 400 residents live mainly in Oban, the only town on the island. We will be dropping anchor around 1:30am tonight just off the island of Ulva, a wildlife preserve. Hopefully, after meeting our contacts with the Department of Conservation, we will take STARTENDER out to see the wildlife.

Ulli and I pulled out some of the charts of Stewart Island. To our surprise one of the charts was made in 1849, surveyed by Captain J.L. Stokes and the officers of the HMS Acheron. This is the most up to date chart currently available. Michael mentioned that a survey was just completed and a new chart will come out next year.

Some keen kiwi fisherman having a crack at hooking 
another small island. [photo James Frankham]

We are pushing down the coast. The winds are light but the swell is getting a bigger. After looking at the forecast, Trevor thinks we should be fine crossing the Foveaux Strait tonight. Wind should blow 10 knots from south, switching to northeast. Thankfully we will not have to deal with the terrible gales from the west. It is pretty quiet on the boat, we just watched our matinee movie and now as Enrico is heating up some lunch. The ladies are reading up where and what we should do on Stewart Island. We are all looking forward to seeing the nocturnal kiwi birds as they feed on the beach. I am just happy to get there since everyone has been talking about it since we arrived in New Zealand.

While on watch the crew has reported seeing albatross, New Zealand fur seals, and dusky dolphins. The clouds have lifted and we have a view of the windswept cliffs of the South Island. I just checked the watch schedule and this 31 hour passage should be over by the time my name comes up again. That means I will enjoy an uninterrupted night of sleep and I will be well rested for a packed day of exploring the island tomorrow.

STARSHIP signing off,

Anne-Lise