Morning morning,

Waking up to the sun shining brightly over the bow is an ever continuing marvel that never seems to dull. We headed out of Cebu harbour at 5.00am in the morning around the point to Kon Tiki Divers, to fetch Maki and head down to Bohol Island for some exploring and a little diving. Breakfast on the run while we steamed enabled us to chat with Maki and learn a little about her and how she came to be in the Philippines.

After leaving Japan 6 years ago she planned to travel and work in the Philippines. Once the year was over she stayed and has been here ever since. Managing the dive store is a big job and she seems to strive at the challenge. It was interesting to hear her speak about the difference between the roles of women in Japan and the concept of being called boss in the Philippines. Maki has been diving for over 18 years and been teaching the sport for over 8. In more recent years she has concentrated on the teaching of Assistant Instructors and Open Water Instructors, leaving her new instructors to take care of the Open Water level. She is a well accomplished diver with several qualifications, PADI Master Instructor, NAUI Instructor Trainer, SSI Open Water Instructor being just a few. She hopes to further her training in the near future to include Tri-mix diving as well. Her bubbly personality and friendly smile is a pleasure to have onboard STARSHIP. It is always pleasing as a teacher myself to find others with the same passions for an environment as fragile as the ocean.

Maki all smiles.
[ image - James Frankham ]

Talking with her we were able to establish what was the general tourist infiltration into the country. Americans, Europeans, Japanese, Taiwanese and Chinese seem to make up the majority of the market although she has noted that over the past few months the numbers have been down.

Anyway, around 10.30am we arrived at Cabilao Island located on the west coast of Bohol Island. On the shore a quaint lighthouse stands on the northwestern tip looking dizzily out to sea. It is here just beneath the water's silky skin that we had our first dive of the day. Monika, Dave, James, Enrico, Maki and I headed over the side of the tender and down towards the reef outcrop where the wall dropped away to nothingness. Entering the water we noticed the slight current running the length of the wall which levelled at around 38m / 135ft. Before us a series of overhangs appeared one by one with many small excited fish swimming about small cracks which allowed for light to penetrate and flicker about in the water below. Swimming along we approached a ridge covered in glorious Sponges (Xestospongia testudinaria and Ianthella basta) of several colours and sizes. All over the sponges a frenzy of Sea cucumbers (synaptula sp.) feed. Curious Banner fish (Heniochus acuminatus) swam up and down the reef like a congregation of a marching band. Circling above us a school of Chevron barracuda (Sphyryena quenie) silhouetted by the sun displayed friendly yet illusory behaviour. A pleasant and enjoyable start to the day.

A second and third dive followed at Balicasag Is, which plays host to a Marine sanctuary. Soft corals (Family Alcyconiidae), the wildflowers of the ocean and Crinoids (Family comasteridae) adorned the walls and drop off creating a beautiful image. The topography of this area was extremely appealing as it had an aura about it. Sloping ridges with cascading sandy slopes opening out into a vast blue pool of water, magnificent visibility and an astonishing diversity of marine specimens - a photographer's delight. The coral life was by far some of the best I have seen in the indo pacific so far with very little if any bleaching damage. Most of the dive was spent weaving in and out of the canyons observing the passing Trevelly (Family Carangidae) as it chased about it's dinner. A shy Firefish (Peterios antennata) didn’t escape Dave’s attention as it attempted camouflage against the reef wall. James was taken by the sheer size of a very large Nudibranch (Notodoris gardineri). Everyone finding his or her own little something special. Simply incredible!

A lazy firefish.
[ image - Dave Abbott ]

While sitting in the tender between dives I watched the local dive companies move about the reef with precise precision as they gathered their scattered divers before returning to Cebu. Small children fished on the shore while others buzzed up and down the small islands in their boats. A lonesome man strolled the shore smoking a cigarette and staring in a daze out across the ocean, possibly pondering over the view. He looked happy. Many boats of ranging sizes and colours lay spread across the shore, vacant from use, yet seemingly ready for action should the desire arise.

On the ride back to STARSHIP in the tender the view was magnificent as the sun slowly disappeared behind the spine of Cebu, a glimmer of baby blue sky could just be seen through the forming storm clouds with their charcoal grey shawl. The sea was a hazardous mixture of waves similar to the surface of water as it boils. Rounding the corner of Sauang Pass we found a sheltered anchorage on the northern side of Sandingan Island. Settling in for the evening out across the water the lights of small fishing boats sparkled like candles on a cake and the smell of a fresh burning wood spread from the shore to our senses. A wonderful day in paradise.

See you tomorrow.

Lou