Saturday 8th July, 2000
Tablas Island, Philippines
Writer : Louise Oliver
Hello Hello,
Passage started out a little hectic as we dodged
and weaved between several passing yachts and night fisherman who would put
their lights on at the last minute as well as the fast catamarans heading to
Cebu. The real challenge however came from the mine field of fishing moorings.
Each could barely be spotted on the radar and sprung up where you least expected
them. Most of the evening was spent switching from autopilot to GPS navigation
in order to avoid collisions. Things started to look better as the sun came up
although the wind speed seems to be growing the closer we get to Mindoro.
Well we have adopted passage mode, and for the
first time since I have joined STARSHIP we actually have some less than pleasant
seas. The whitecaps are rolling off the waves in unison as each wave folds over
the one in front. Where their final destination lies we will never know as they
will simply pass from one shore to the next. We have been monitoring a tropical
depression in the South China Sea as it has been growing and drawing some
forceful winds in our direction. While on passage there is very little that can
be done as the boat pitches up and down in the waves. Musical beds seem to be on
todays agenda as each of us search for the most comfortable resting place
while not on watch. Some of the hot spots are the couch in the salon and the
bench seat at the dinning table. If all else fails the floor is surprisingly
comfortable. Some good advice is to avoid opening the fridge and having ten
sodas fall in your face. A good book is always good if you can find the
will-power to read. Staring at computer screens for extended periods of time a
definite no-no.

Under the shelter of Sibuyan but still being
battered with 30 knots winds.
[ photo - James Frankham ]
One has the opportunity to ponder on all sorts of
things while staring out over a blackened sea. Watching the rise and fall can be
captivating until the motion makes you feel a little strange. I am pleased to
report that thus far everyone is surviving, not falling ill to the boats
rocking. I might add that we are also getting plenty of sleep although it is
restless as you constantly are awoken by the friendly push of Mother Nature as
she does her thing.
A turbulent blue-gray sea stretches out towards
the horizon, Sibuyan Island to starboard and Romblon Island to port. We have
been traveling for around 20 hours and still have 8 to go before we reach
Mindoro Island. The wind has picked up to a blustering 29 knots and the
barometer has dropped to 1001.4 mbar ... a storm is definitely brewing. A quiet
slumber seems to have finally taken over the boat as all on board finally get
some shut-eye.
Mindoro has on offer a magnitude of activities in
which to indulge. A trek through an un spoilt forest to deserted beaches. Visit
Hanunoo Mangyan a site of the first settlers or simply relax and watch the
sunset. The island is also host to one of the largest freshwater lakes, Nagun
Lake in the country and is a wildlife reserve. It is also said to be the home of
the Tamaraw (dwarf buffalo), which can be found nowhere else in the world.
Dissimilar to the disciplined buffalo, which is considered very submissive the
Tamaraw is a brutal animal. There is only a small number of the Tamaraw left in
the wild and a thus considered quite unique. Another unique creature to keep a
look out for in the Monkey Eating Eagle, I guess we will have to keep our eyes
peeled.

Lou drops anchor in a sheltered bay.
[ photo - James Frankham ]
We passed by two boats as three men battled the
conditions in order to take home a catch. Wind and salt blowing in their faces
as they struggled with nets in the uncontrollable water. So as the rest of the
day roles away wave by wave we all await our arrival at this new and outwardly
fascinating place. After facing the challenge of the waves until 6.00pm we
decided to pull into a sheltered bay at the north end of Tablas Island where a
small town by the name of Carmen is situated. It seems that several others had
the same idea as we entered the bay and found it inundated with ships most likely on
passage to Manila. It is almost unreal that once in the bay the wind is absent
and the motion of rocking banished. High walls of lush vegetation and the familiar
sound of a village busy in daily activity surrounds the bay. After
dropping the anchor we will have some dinner and decide on whether to continue
tonight or stay anchored in the comfort of Carmen until morning. I will leave
you until tomorrow when Dave can fill you in on our plans.
Safe sailing,
Lou
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