Saturday 8th July, 2000
Tablas Island, Philippines
Writer : Louise Oliver

Hello Hello,

Passage started out a little hectic as we dodged and weaved between several passing yachts and night fisherman who would put their lights on at the last minute as well as the fast catamarans heading to Cebu. The real challenge however came from the mine field of fishing moorings. Each could barely be spotted on the radar and sprung up where you least expected them. Most of the evening was spent switching from autopilot to GPS navigation in order to avoid collisions. Things started to look better as the sun came up although the wind speed seems to be growing the closer we get to Mindoro.

Well we have adopted passage mode, and for the first time since I have joined STARSHIP we actually have some less than pleasant seas. The whitecaps are rolling off the waves in unison as each wave folds over the one in front. Where their final destination lies we will never know as they will simply pass from one shore to the next. We have been monitoring a tropical depression in the South China Sea as it has been growing and drawing some forceful winds in our direction. While on passage there is very little that can be done as the boat pitches up and down in the waves. Musical beds seem to be on today’s agenda as each of us search for the most comfortable resting place while not on watch. Some of the hot spots are the couch in the salon and the bench seat at the dinning table. If all else fails the floor is surprisingly comfortable. Some good advice is to avoid opening the fridge and having ten sodas fall in your face. A good book is always good if you can find the will-power to read. Staring at computer screens for extended periods of time a definite no-no.

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Under the shelter of Sibuyan but still being battered with 30 knots winds.
[ photo - James Frankham ]

One has the opportunity to ponder on all sorts of things while staring out over a blackened sea. Watching the rise and fall can be captivating until the motion makes you feel a little strange. I am pleased to report that thus far everyone is surviving, not falling ill to the boats rocking. I might add that we are also getting plenty of sleep although it is restless as you constantly are awoken by the friendly push of Mother Nature as she does her thing.

A turbulent blue-gray sea stretches out towards the horizon, Sibuyan Island to starboard and Romblon Island to port. We have been traveling for around 20 hours and still have 8 to go before we reach Mindoro Island. The wind has picked up to a blustering 29 knots and the barometer has dropped to 1001.4 mbar ... a storm is definitely brewing. A quiet slumber seems to have finally taken over the boat as all on board finally get some shut-eye.

Mindoro has on offer a magnitude of activities in which to indulge. A trek through an un spoilt forest to deserted beaches. Visit Hanunoo Mangyan a site of the first settlers or simply relax and watch the sunset. The island is also host to one of the largest freshwater lakes, Nagun Lake in the country and is a wildlife reserve. It is also said to be the home of the Tamaraw (dwarf buffalo), which can be found nowhere else in the world. Dissimilar to the disciplined buffalo, which is considered very submissive the Tamaraw is a brutal animal. There is only a small number of the Tamaraw left in the wild and a thus considered quite unique. Another unique creature to keep a look out for in the Monkey Eating Eagle, I guess we will have to keep our eyes peeled.

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Lou drops anchor in a sheltered bay.
[ photo - James Frankham ]

We passed by two boats as three men battled the conditions in order to take home a catch. Wind and salt blowing in their faces as they struggled with nets in the uncontrollable water. So as the rest of the day roles away wave by wave we all await our arrival at this new and outwardly fascinating place. After facing the challenge of the waves until 6.00pm we decided to pull into a sheltered bay at the north end of Tablas Island where a small town by the name of Carmen is situated. It seems that several others had the same idea as we entered the bay and found it inundated with ships most likely on passage to Manila. It is almost unreal that once in the bay the wind is absent and the motion of rocking banished. High walls of lush vegetation and the familiar sound of a village busy in daily activity surrounds the bay. After dropping the anchor we will have some dinner and decide on whether to continue tonight or stay anchored in the comfort of Carmen until morning. I will leave you until tomorrow when Dave can fill you in on our plans.

Safe sailing,

Lou