Thursday March 23, 2000 - Yongala wreck, Australia

Hello fellow explorers,

The sun is setting and STARSHIP is situated in the waters above the sunken wreck of the SS Yongala. Once again it is nearly impossible to imagine all that we saw diving exists below the smooth ocean surface. Just before a dreadful cyclone hit on March 23, 1911, the steamboat Yongala set from Mackay on an over night passage to Townsville loaded with cargo including a horse named 'Moonshine'. Settling down to dinner that fateful night, the122 crew and passengers were most likely talking about the worsening weather. Without a radio she did not receive the cyclone warning. She never arrived in Townsville and with no survivors the exact events of that fateful night will never be known. To follow would be a massive search but it wasn’t until1953 that the ship was finally found. Today marks the 89th anniversary of her disappearance. Who could have imagined that such a tragedy could have such magnificent results ...

The SS Yongala launched in 1903.

I felt like Alice in Wonderland today as we descended on the Yongala wreck. It was as if I had shrunk to a fraction of my normal size, everything around me seemed gigantic. First off, the 110 m (363 ft) long ship seemed to stretch on forever and disappear into the murky water. Disproportionately large batfish swam slowly down to the ship. Large loggerhead sea turtles stumbled over the wreck nibbling at bits of sponge and soft coral. An obese moray eel poked its head out of the reef. And the most eerie by far was the gargantuan grouper, named VW, approximately the size of a Volkswagen beetle. The true scale of this fish was enhanced by the permanent cloud of tiny baitfish swimming around it. Every now and then a pelagic fish would strike scattering the tiny fish but moments later they would regroup around the enormous groper.

The Batfish use the wreck like a drive-through carwash.

The Yongala is a fish oasis in the middle of a desolate shipping lane 45 nautical miles from Townsville. Strong currents supply an endless buffet of nutrients for the coral and food for the marine life. Every square inch of the ship is covered in corals, soft corals, sponges, and oyster shells of every shape and colour imaginable. It is also a workstation for the cleaner fish, which nibble the parasites off larger fish. The batfish not only opens up its gills for the cleaner fish but also changes its colour and so that the parasites are easer to find.

Eyes as large as saucers, James and Enrico surfaced from the wreck site. As Michael predicted, their first 'adrenaline dive' was amazing. Enrico was impressed by a huge eagle ray hovering over the wreck and the sheer volume of fish overwhelmed James. Caroline spotted a lone bull shark that was as big as her. A sea snake slithered up and touched DJ, she was surprised how soft its skin was. Rich warned us that the snake may get particularly friendly and wrapping itself around divers legs. Sea snakes are some of the most poisonous snakes in the world, thankfully, they are also docile creatures.

A school of barracuda attracted by the smaller fish on 
the wreck cruise overhead.

Good news. After studying the books, passing the written exam and fulfilling the required dives, Trevor has determined that the boys, James and Enrico, have completed the PADI Open Water scuba course satisfactorily. By the power vested in him as a scuba instructor he pronounced them full-fledged scuba divers. Yeah!! Not bad considering their “scuba school” has taken them to some of the most famous dive spots in the world. Being on STARSHIP definitely has its perks. 

STARSHIP signing off,

Anne-Lise

PS. if interested in visiting the Yongala site check-in with Mike Ball Dive Excursions at www.mikeball.com. They have a smooth dive operation and know this site very well. They were a great help today and we especially enjoyed the triple chocolate muffins they sent over.