Friday March 24, 2000 - Flinders Reef, Australia.

G’day,

The Flinders Reef sits beyond the Great Barrier Reef, out in the Coral Sea. Rich explained that unlike the reefs of the Great Barrier Reef, which sit on the continental shelf, Flinders Reef is an independent atoll. The reef, therefore, drops off dramatically to depths of a thousand meters. The reef covers a rather large area of 1000 square km and has a relatively tiny sandy island or cay. Masked boobies, sooty terns and frigate birds take refuge on this barren island, marked only by a weather station.

Brown and masked boobies make their home on the 
cay between the turtle nests.

The first dive was amazing. With so much visibility we could really get feel for the landscape especially the wall dropping straight down1000 meters (3000 ft). Trevor led Caroline, Enrico and myself down the side of the cliff. Hands and legs extended he looked like a free falling parachute diver. He kept a close watch on us to make sure we did not fall below 30 meters. Turning in towards the reef, we rounded some amazing pinnacles swarming with fish and sea life. These coral heads opened up into what looked like a vast desert. Visibility was over 40 meters (120ft) and I could see a row of coral heads disappear into the distance.

Now that the entire STARSHIP crew are certified scuba divers, we spent the day diving our hearts out. Michael and Rich are diving machines, not letting any dive opportunity pass. I am impressed by their stamina as I can barely keep my eyes open after two dives. Breakfast and lunch are started and finished quickly in order to get back to preparing the diving gear. Rich has oodles of dives under his belt and knows the area like the back of his hand. He always gives us a quick debriefing before each dive and even makes out a floor plan of the area. I am usually so overwhelmed by the beauty underwater that I can barely remember all the different species of marine life I am supposed to be identifying.

Caroline pointed out a juvenile Emperor Angelfish, which might be one of the most gorgeous fish I have ever seen, but how can I make such a sweeping statement and not feel guilty towards all the other beautiful tropical fish. We also saw the extravagant and poisonous Lionfish, stripped catfish, a gray whaler shark, unicorn fish, Christmas tree sea worms, Moorish Idol, big eye travelly, the list goes on and on....

Already lucky to have made it to the water. 

At sunset we headed out to a small island to catch a glimpse of the newly hatched sea turtles make a dash for the ocean. There were impressive tractor size turtle tracks across the sand. And just after the sunset a hundred miniature hatchlings poked their heads out of the sand. They opened their eyes for the first time and began the mad rush for the sea. With surprising speed and determination they made there way to the water only to be gobbled up by waiting travelly fish and sharks. I can’t believe it. It was simultaneously amazing and severely depressing phenomenon. There is so much life and spunk in each of the turtles it is sad to think that only a few out of a hundred will survive to maturity.

STARSHIP singing off,

Anne-Lise