Morning,

This morning we all did a big clean up of STARSHIP, with the bumping and bouncing of the last few days salt covered every inch of the boat. And the inside was nicely decorated with flying paper and books. Lisa and Diana got busy outside while DJ and I began with the inside. By the time Michael called on the radio the boat was looking super. On a flight from the Seychelles, Karl-Heinz and Hans from Deutsche Telekom, accompanied by Uli from Stern Magazine, three gentlemen from customs, immigration and health and Michael. This weary bunch of travellers just spent three and a half hours flying over the ocean to join us at Assomption. With bright eyes and big smiles they were happy to finally be here. On the small aircraft they had a special package; a gift to the Aldabra station from STARSHIP, Stern and Solan Ag; two solar panels, brought to help with power.

Solar panels enroute to Aldabra.

This is yet to be the most interesting form of customs clearing. The three officials had to fly all the way from Victoria in Mahe to sign our paperwork. This is all part of the way they protect the atoll group by being able to monitor who comes in and out of the island and from where. With everyone on board we began to make our way toward Aldabra, the main atoll. Lifting the anchor turned out to be a little trickier than normal. For some reason or another the breaker for the anchor winch kept cutting out, we are still baffled. Eventually all of the boys, crew and guests, put a little muscle into pulling the chain up by hand. Muddy and perplexed by the grand achievement we were on our way. The tricky question would be how would we drop the anchor once we made it to Aldabra.

On the way across Michael, Charles and Karl-Heinz puzzled over the problem until eventually they decided to by-pass the breaker and run a direct feed to the winch. The only problem introduced was the need to be cautious with the wiring as not to have anyone hurt themselves. This solved the first problem, then came problem number two. Finding an anchorage where the anchor would stick! After 9 attempts and several conversations on the VHF radio we found a nice sandy spot just down from the settlement and station where scientists come and stay while studying this special environment.

Heading in along the coastline of the atoll, the mystery and intrigue that has developed in my mind since first hearing about Aldabra was coming to life. I feel very honoured to be one of a selected few that gets the chance to see such and incredible ecosystem in the way Mother Nature intended. The white washed sandy beaches rimmed in shrubbery and a strings of coconut palms, outcropping coral heads basking in the sun, a pair of mating green turtles clasped together on the surface, frigates flying over head. Amazingly my mind is already filled with intense imagery and I haven’t even stepped on the land.

Picard is one of four major islands that makes up the atoll. It is the site of the research station and home to a few friendly faces we had the chance of meeting this afternoon. Louie Prea (Warden), Anna (research officer), Brian (ranger) and Allan (logistics manager) showed Michael, James, Joerg, Uli, Hans and Karl-Heinz around the station. Taking a closer look at one of the healthy populations of the Giant land tortoises, the group were impressed with the facilities and the knowledge of the guides.

Aldabra is one of the world’s great wonders. The group of islands within the Aldabra are unusual in the fact that they are raised coral atolls; Aldabra is in fact the world’s largest coral atoll. For some time Aldabra was under British control until it as handed over to the Seychelles in 1881. In 1965 however the atoll was detached from the Seychelles to form The British Indian Ocean Territory. In 1976 management and protection of the island returned to the Seychelles.

Tortoises congregate beneath Aldabran scrub.

Due to its isolation and particularly difficult terrain Aldabra was fortunate to escape the fate bestowed on neighbouring islands. The Seychelles declared the atoll a nature reserve and in 1982 UNESCO declared Aldabra a World Heritage site, for it astonishing ecosystem. Aldabra is a virgin land where flora and fauna live in an innate but delicate equilibrium. The giant land tortoise is at the moment facing its carrying capacity on the island; one hopes the population will remain stable. It is such a place that man can only be seen as a threat and it is the aim of SIF (Seychelles Island Foundation) to make sure that the atoll remains as untouched as possible and a sanctuary for its wildlife.

This evening Michael, Joerg, Uli, Karl-Heinz and Hans joined Brian, Anna and Allan ashore to check whether they could find turtles nesting. Walking along the blackened beach the group was fortunate to finally see two turtles and even more fortunate to watch one female lay her eggs before making her slow and tiring return to the sea, one of the more incredible elements of nature.

Tomorrow we will begin taking a closer look at the island, look forward to sharing it with you.

Lou