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Mayotte, Comoros
Writer : Louise Oliver
Hi Cybersailors,
We pulled into Mayotte at around 7.30am. Mayotte is quite a contrast to the sparse and low-lying topography of Aldabra. Instead our gaze was met by luscious green hills touched by a dark blue sea, rimmed in a reef bubbling with fish life. The main island is surrounded by an array of tiny islets, plump like puddings. Mayotte is the most southerly and oldest of the Comoros islands. Unlike the other three islands
Njazidja (formerly known as Grande Comore), Mwali (Mohéli), and Nzwani (Anjouan) form the federal Islamic Republic of Comoros. Mayotte’s background has it as a collectivite Territoriale of France and the people on the island are citizens of the European community.Mayotte followed a similar history to the other islands in the Comoros. Muslim sultans ruled the island. In 1841, the ruling sultan of the time Tsy Lavalou Andriansouli, one of the more forceful rulers, sold the island to the French for 5,000 francs a year. In turn he received protection. It was the first island to come under French colonization and allowed for a haven to develop to service cane growers as well as the slave trade.
Michael, DJ, Joerg, James, Uli and I watched from the bow as we passed by the island's fringe making our way to the small port of Mamoudzou. Inside Charles and Lisa watched from the helm at the oncoming new country awaiting our arrival. In the protected harbour yachts of every colour and size lay strung to moorings, back to back. Stays rattled in the morning breeze and French flags sailed high. Getting on the radio Michael contacted the port authority that spoke to us in broken English. With Uli’s help, and hidden talent of speaking French, we established where we could anchor and begin with clearing formalities.
It had been a long night for everyone. After leaving Aldabra we developed a problem with the air-conditioning unit. One of the motors running the unit burned out. For some time Michael and Charles worked on the unit. While on watch the temperature soared and for most of the journey we travelled with the bridge doors open. In the cabins below unfortunately where many of us sleep the overnight temperatures escalated to 38 degrees Celsius. After reaching our anchorage this morning James and I did a little underwater handy work on the intake valve for the air-conditioner. The water was quite salty and a slight current was running which made our efforts to stay in one spot on the hull challenging. After removing the vent that covered the water intake for the cooling system we found a harbour of barnacles creating quite a traffic jam. A little elbow grease and everything was back to normal.
Michael and Uli headed ashore to follow up on our clearance while the rest of us got busy giving STARSHIP a good once over. With soapy suds flying in the wind and the vacuum going around in circles she was looking good in no time. Charles finished up with the air-conditioner; thank goodness room temperature is back to liveable. With a call from Michael we headed over to the local dock where he and Uli waited with the port captain. They had arranged to pick up some gasoline for the tender. While we fueled the locals continued about their daily routines.
Throughout the day the coming and going of a car ferry transported people from the main island to Pamandzi where the local airport can be found. French accents filled the air and the mixed culture of the island left the day with a delightfully colourful feeling. The emerald-coated island has been very hospitable and invited us with warm open arms. We are all looking forward to a quite night to prepare us for the coming days of exploration.
Till then I will wish you all, Bon nuit,
Lou