Howdy Starshippers,

We arrived in Nosy Be at around 11am this morning; with the sun shining brightly we got our first view of the Madagascan coastline and its luxuriant forests. Approaching the quaint harbour of Hell-Ville we began to see the beginning of what has made this island known throughout the world. Boat after boat rafted up against the small dock. Dhows heading out into the bay to fish, some laden with goods, bottles, paper and baskets. The sails slack with the dropping of the wind, wrinkled like a freshly washed sheet. Yachts hauled up on their moorings bouncing in the prevailing swell. Debris of trees and litter washed past in the current. The dock was busy, bright and boasted a large gathering of people, tender after tender raced across the harbour with passengers.

While Michael and Uli headed ashore to clear customs and immigration we gave STARSHIP the once over until she shone like a pearl. Shiny white, the water droplets beamed on her hull and reflected in the sun. Lisa and I finished off by giving the teak a good scrub and by 2.00pm called it a day. Michael soon returned to STARSHIP and we got busy planning the remainder of the day while Joerg joined Uli venturing ashore to investigate the local scene.

This afternoon we took a stroll through part of the forestland leading to the Lokobe Reserve where chameleons and lemurs are found foraging in the vegetation. We didn’t quite make it into the thickest part of the forest and will save that journey for an early morning. However we did enjoy what the afternoon offered. Taking STARTENDER around the bay from Hell-Ville, the capital, we came to a small village with a few friendly inhabitants. Paddling in the water before us one of the elders welcomed us to his home and fetched one of the younger men to show us through the forest.

A photogenic elder.

Michael met with another traveller from Germany by the name of Nico. He and his friend Willie, a local Madagascan, came along and were quite helpful with communication. Willie has grown up in Madagascar and calls the place his home while Nico has been visiting here since April. Into the thickness of the bush we went. Walking along the somewhat visible path we encountered a plant we had seen in Papua New Guinea on Witu Island, something hard to forget. Unlike anything else it has the ability to make your legs develop a frustratingly annoying itch.

Venturing deeper and deeper into the forest we discovered a vibrant diversity of life. Insects humming and birds calling, then suddenly an unusual call. I am told throughout our travels of Madagascar we will become familiar with it. It was the distinctive lemur; high above us in the branches of the surrounding trees they jumped. The lemurs are found mainly on Madagascar and 90% of the species can be found amongst the forest.

Lemurs belong to the primates, nearly 30 different species are currently recognised, and today we were lucky to get our first view of two, the black and brown lemurs. These inquisitive critters are led by a female and commonly found in groups ranging from 3-15 individuals. Of the black lemurs only the male is distinctively black, the female is much lighter with a white beard and white ear tufts. They are considered sacred by the locals and are consequently protected.

Nosy Be locals.

The forest edge harbours the small village and papaw and mango trees are prevalent. Small chickens and pidgeons peck at the ground feeding. In the village a large pen is constructed to house the population of cows owned by the locals. Children gather by the water and what was an empty area on our arrival became a flutter of activity as we emerged from the bush in the later part of the afternoon. Water was being collected and vegetables were being prepared for dinner. A group of children ran about playing happily together, interrupted for just a moment by our presence.

As we returned to STARSHIP the sun was setting and casting a delightful array of melon hues across the baren sky. The hills reflecting a gorgeous chocolate orange and iridescent green. The seas were a little choppy and on our journey home waves splashed up over STARTENDER's bow, drenching us in salty spray. A large boat was heading across the bay with 3 tenders in tow. As they came closer the most beautiful sounds could be heard. Singing echoed through the air and the deep tones aroused a sense of wonder inside me, a feeling of belonging. Madagascar is turning out to be quite inspirational.

This evening we have been joined by some of the passing yachties we met in Dar es Salaam, over a few drinks we shared with them STARSHIP’s journey thus far and some of the wonders we have encounters. The pigmy seahorse in Sulawesi, and the mantis shrimp of New Guinea. Some of the crew will head ashore after dinner to check out the island's night life and I will say goodnight,

Lou