Habari za asubuhi (good morning),

In light of Zanzibar’s elections we upped anchor and head north to the island of Pemba. The island lies about 80km north of Zanzibar, and to the east of Tanzania. In the breaking of the morning Lisa, Charles and Diana took watches at the helm. We travelled for most of the morning arriving at lunchtime. Heading north through the Pemba channel we came across the Negezi Peninsula. STARSHIP tucked into the bay of Njao through a gap in the island. Thick mangroves draped the shores with a mask of green leaves and entwined roots.

We visited a local charter boat in the bay. Charlie and Tim have been running charters in Pemba for a little over a year. Their two boats having a cosy charm about them. A great spot appeared to be on the bow spread where a chair looked out over the water, I imagine it is great during the whale season. They told us of a village just across the bay worth visiting. While we chatted a little about Pemba and our plans to stay for a few days as a big ship passed the Njao Gap. It was a Tanzanian frigate ship.

I will make a most valiant effort to recount to you the events that entailed today, in at least a semi-articulate manner. After a moment of thought a decision was made to check in with the frigate ship just to make sure they were aware of our planned stay in Pemba. Gliding across the surface of the water the tender drew near to the vessel. The decks lay heavy with artillery as to did many of the men onboard. Pulling along side the vessel they asked us about our plans and decided they wanted a look on STARSHIP. In order to do this they requested firmly that James and Lasse remain on board. In their place we had four Tanzanian guards join us for a ride back to STARSHIP.

It is impossible to know what thoughts were running through their heads although there is always, no matter what the situation, the intrigue about places far away. The two guards that joined the officers on STARSHIP echoed questions, where do you come from? What is your family like? Are you married? Wasn’t to sure about that one, never the less they continued on in their inquisitive manner. Soon they were satisfied that our being in Pemba was ok and we headed back to retrieve our detained cargo. James and Lasse had interesting tales to tell of their time onboard the frigate ship. Astounded that the questions where all about marriage, children and how many wives you could have. They sat huddled in the bridge of the vessel bewildered by the onlooking group firing questions at them left right and centre.

Finally making it ashore Michael, James, Joerg, Reimer, Lasse and I visited a local village on the peninsula. For the first time since visiting many places I felt a terrible knot in my stomach. My Swahili in great need of work. I was disabled in that I could barely communicate with the people. Approaching land we prepared ourselves, covered in the appropriate manner suiting their customs and met two young boys washing by a well near the water. After our struggle the boys decided to show us about the village and the fields of vegetables.

The houses were made entirely of natural products, thatched roofs and mud walls concreted with sticks and coral as a skeleton. Shy individuals peered from behind doors and wondered about us being in their village. A group of girls crowded me, their faces incredibly beautiful and voices powerful, word after word shouted in my direction. I was paralysed by not being able to respond. How stupid. After stumbling for a while we slowly by recognition, fingers, hands, shoes, and fruit started to get a little from each other. I found them incredible. How was it possible that children maybe only ten could be so prevailing?

Throughout the village daily life continued, women collecting water from the wells and the boys chatting amongst themselves listening to the radio. The news of the election had not yet come. The colours of the wrap around each girl brilliant yellows, reds and blues, bouncing out at you. A small girl with an adorable chocolate brown face and enormous eyes followed me around the village waving and running to hide.

Heading back to STARSHIP I had on the agenda more practice of the local language in the hope that future encounters leave me able to talk with the villagers. With some light remaining we decided to do some snorkelling outside the bay, on the edge of the reef flat leading to the channel. In the water hundreds of Sea urchins crowded the ocean floor, spines tangling with the one next to them. Small anemone fish caressed their host anemones brushing their bodies back and forward through the array of tentacles swinging in the current. A small star moray peered from beneath a rock. Possibly a little stunned by the encounter of our masked faces examining so closely. A juvenile Lionfish danced around the outcropping shelf of a nearby bommie, flaring his pectoral fins and twisting, a most intriguing and captivating movement. The water began to feel chilly against the skin and goose bumps formed on my arms in the blowing of the wind. We started heading back to STARSHIP, stopping at some nearby mangroves to look at some birds.

So still and so quiet the water lapping around the roots of the trees. It stirred the melody springing from each bird's call. Kingfishers perched on branches look at us before taking to the air above. Slipping into the water the surroundings soon became intensely topographic, wild roots from the overhanging mangroves, created a lace in the water above the surface, wet leaves sparkled in the sunlight, hermit crabs struggled with their shells on the sandy bottom while many birds feathered their wings adjusting their position. The sun is falling and the sky is beginning to silhouette these beautiful creatures, nature is eloquent to say the least.

Good night,

Lou