Sunday 8th October, 2000
La Digue, Seychelles
Writer : Louise
Oliver
This morning started with a glorious ray of sunshine piercing through the
scattered rain clouds that soon parted and made way for a beautiful day. Boats
bounced on the water like toys in a bath, the swell from the Indian Ocean being
dampened by the outlying reefs. Diving boats headed out for a morning dip. The
atmosphere set for new discoveries.
Michael James, Andreas, Ludger and I headed ashore to take a look around the
small island of La Digue. Some eight years ago Michael visited the islands and
was surprised somewhat by how things had changed. Buildings where once a beach
path lead and an influx of tourists absorbing the delight of beautiful white
beaches. Just imagine turquoise lagoons surrounded by coral reefs fringing a
deep blue abysses, coconut palms mirrored in the gin waters along the shore,
towered by granite rock carefully shaped over years and years of natural
erosion. The artistic work of Mother Nature simply magnificent.
Also during our travels we met with some locals with particularly Seychelles
flair and character, Frankie entertained us with his presence and wispy
dreadlocks as he spoke in a somewhat French accent. He told us of the islands
with beautiful reefs and where we might encounter good shark action, all sounds
promising. Pierre, a scuba diving instructor at one of the local dive stores
spoke a little about the state of the reef and where might be the best places to
go to see the best of the biological diversity we have read about; lots of fish,
sharks, turtles, morays, whale sharks and rays, sounds too good to be true but
time will tell.

Giant Land Tortoises
endemic to Seychelles.
Giant land tortoises find shelter in the shade of the overhanging trees.
While taking the chance to take a closer look at these magnificent animals, I
for a moment felt saddened by the consequences of the past, which is one of the
reasons they are kept in pens now. however it is a compliment to the country
that they have in some way been able to increase the awareness of these animals
and teach a little of their history. Michael commented on the size. Surprisingly
many were quite large; in natural environments it may have taken many more years
to reach the same stage. They moved very slowly and with an air of grace only
bestowed on their species.
Life on the island is peaceful and travels at a pace desirable to most.
Families gather while men work in the boat shed on their latest project,
children play in the sand, making sand soup, so they told us, and swimming in
the shallows of the lagoon. Bonjour rolling off the tips of their tongues along
with I love you. Adorable curls frame their sun browned faces, which are beaming
with a smile from ear to ear.
The beaches are just like you imagine them to be, crystal white sand so fine
that it slips between your toes like honey off a spoon and the coconut palms
beat in the wind, fronds catching the chocolate glow of the morning sun against
a charcoal rock canvas which later in the day develops a moody rose pink,
highlights of the quartz and feldspars present in the granite.

Sculpted granite
formations.
An older man walks a bull under the shade of a frond-roofed pergola, grinding
coconut using traditional wooden mill techniques. The sand shifts under the hoof
of the bull while the aroma of coconut shavings fills the air. In the distance
the sound of working people coming from a small copra house.
Not too far from La Digue by boat you have one of the most intriguing
formations of granite in the Seychelles. Cocos Island is a mass of palms,
granite and water. The surrounding sea is crystal clear and hosts a variety of
tropical fish. It is heavenly to dip beneath the surface and escape into the
wonders of the marine world. To provide visitors to the island with a tropical
paradise in which to explore and keep the best interest of the environment at
hand, the government has placed moorings. The aim of this is to reduce anchor
damage and allow the existing coral to regenerate as it suffered some marginal
coral bleaching during the warming in 1998, however it appears the damage from
anchoring might also be responsible.
So far it has been extremely pleasing to see how aware of their environment
the local people are and the will they demonstrate to conserve it. I hope I can
only discover more of this tomorrow.
So for now I will say adeiu,
Lou
|